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In the mornings, Panchito Olachea likes to walk. He sets off at six with his dogs trailing behind, a pack of neighborhood strays he has taken in over the years. It is quiet on the edge of sprawling Nogales, Sonora, a busy industrial port in northern Mexico. From the crest of the hill where Panchito lives, the city's hectic, backed-up traffic lies behind the rise, out of sight. Before him, the desert unrolls serenely to the horizon, low and gold, interrupted only by the border wall: a rust-red ribbon dividing the view neatly in half.
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